Production Process » Clay Production

MixerThe process begins with an industrial clay mixer that I constructed mostly from scrap metals and surplus transmission components. The one pictured was just completed in January of 2008 and can mix up to 500 pound batches, which is double the capacity of the first mixer I built.

As soon as I mixed my first batch I knew I would never purchase pre-mixed clay again: it costs nearly twice as much to buy and gives a potter very little flexibility. Many commerically-produced clay bodies are forumulated for student use because the academic institutions that purchase them comprise their main customer base.

Mixer - Top viewSo I took a close look at a $5000 commercial clay mixer built for studio potters, and I built a slightly more powerful one for about one-tenth the cost. The picture on the right shows the inside of the mixer with blades that revolve at about 20 rpm and mix a batch of clay in about 10 minutes.

I then started researching the process of formulating a stoneware clay body. I started with a simple stoneware formula and did some tests to see how well suited it was to the temperature range I work in, about 2400°F, and then gradually developed the clay body.

Mixer loaded with reclaimed clayI wanted something that would be nice to work with on the wheel, dry and fire well with minimal cracking, and, most importantly, be able to stand up to its intended use as functional ware, including use in an oven. That is simply too much to ask of a commercially made clay, but easily within reach with the right mixing equipment.

The picture on the left shows about 100 lbs of wet clay scraps dumped into the mixer, which is how I usually start the process of mixing clay. These scraps are reclaimed from the throwing and trimming process.

Adding dry clay to mixerTo this I will add another 100 lbs of dry materials, including four different types of clays and some feldspar to help the clay body fuse during the firing process and dissolve traces of silica, which is the main cause of oven ware failure if not dealt with properly.

Mixing clay this way easily solves the problem of what to do with all the reclaim that tends to accumulate fairly quickly when doing a lot of production work. It also helps the newly mixed clay to age faster than it does when mixing entirely from dry materials. Clay which has aged for a while is always easier to work with, and I find myself making nicer pots if the clay has at least a week or two to sit before use.

De-airing Pug MillThe last step before making pots is to run the clay through the machine pictured on the left, a “de-airing pug mill”. It is made from a section of 8" pipe and has an auger that revolves inside, grinding and mixing the clay as it pushes it forward through a set of stainless steel screens that shred it like spaghetti. As the clay comes out of the screens it passes through a vacuum chamber, controlled by a small vacuum pump, before congealing and being pushed out the other end of the machine, ready for use. One of the most useful machines a potter can have, the de-airing pug mill uses the vacuum pump to boost the plasticity of the clay, making it easier to work with.

AugerThe vacuum also eliminates most of the microscopic air pockets found throughout the tiny clay particles that were just recently mixed together and are still absorbing moisture. More water can be added before running it through if the batch came out stiffer than needed. The final product is a very dense, plastic clay that is almost always just perfect for throwing.

I built this machine mostly from scrap metals and surplus power transmission components, including a five-horsepower motor and heavy duty gear reducer. To the right is a picture of the auger with the casing removed, showing the configuration of the blades that push the clay through the pug mill.

Next step: Glazing >>

[ return to top ]